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(Mode1.)

W. L. VARNEY & W. H. HOWARD.

GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS 0R SHOES.

No. 266,663. Patented Oct. 31, 1882.

WITNESSES:

N. PETERS. Fholu-hlhnglaphcr. Washmg'vll. n. c.

NHED STATES ATEN'E Fries.

XVALLAOE L. VARNEY AND lVILLi M H. HOWARD, OF WAUPUN, 1S.

GUIDE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 266,663, dated October 31, 1882.

Application tiled May 27, 1882. (Specimens) To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that we, WALLAoE L. VARNEY and WILLIAM H. HOWARD, of Waupun, in the county of Dodge and State of Visconsin, have q invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a sp cification.

Our invention relates to the manufacture of boots or shoes; and it consists in a guide or I o gage of improved form adapted to support and guide the upper and lining and hold them in proper relation to the needle.

The ordinary manner of attaching or securing linings in boots and shoes has heretofore been by carefully forming a hole with an awl or other hand implement through the inner face of the leather of the upper and through the edge of the lining, then passing the thread through the holes and repeating the operation,

forming a whipped seam, or, what is commonly called overseaming. This plan is very slow and tedious, and is a great drawback lo the now extensive factory system of manufacture, besides being expensiie and difficult. To obviate these objections it has been attempted to paste the linings in place or to secure them by cement; but generally such attempts have met with indifferent success, the

linings becoming loose and injuring the repu- 0 tation of the work. By our plan, however, all these objections and difficulties are overcome, and a seam is secured in which the whipping or over-seaming is avoided. and the roughness, occasioned thereby is obviated.

In order the more perfectly to carry out our invention, we have constructed a guide especially adapted to receive the folded upper and the edge of the lining and to retain them in proper position relatively to each other and 40 t0 the needle or sewing mechanism.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents the upper and lining as placed in position for stitching; Fig. 2, a plan view, showing the guide or gage; Fig. 3, a perspective view of the upper with the lining stitched thereto.

A represents the upper, and .B the lining; O, the gage or guide, and D the needle of the stitching mechanism, which latter may be of any ordinary type. The lining B is placed upon the bed-plate of the machine and shoved up close against the guide or gage (J. The upper is next folded along the line where the stitching is to be performed, and is laid in this folded condition upon thclining and pushed snugly up against the guide, as shown in Fig. 1, the guide being set at such distance from the needle as willj ustpermittheneedle to pass through the folded edge without passing entirely through thethickness of theleather. Thencedle, after passing through this folded edge, penetrates the edge of the lining and then withdraws, preparatory to making another stitch,- each loop or stitch being fastened by the sewing mechanism in the ordinary manner. Care must be taken to so adjust the guide or gage that while passing through the folded edge of the upper, entering, and passing out on the inner face of the same the needle shall not pass entirely through the thickness of the upper, but only through about one-half thereof, in a manner similar to the common handstitching.

lVe do not claim broadly the idea of sewing linings to uppers, because that has before been done by hand; nor do we claim the sewing mechanism, because that will be of ordinary construction; but the essential feature of our invention consists in the manner of folding the upper and presenting it, with thelining, to the stitching mechanism of a sewing-machine, whereby the stitching of the lining to the upper by machinery is permitted.

As will be seen by Figs. 1 and 2, the guide or gageis made ofsubstantially the usual form, slotted to permit adjustment, and provided with an upright face, a, against which the work bears in passing beneath the needle. Instead, however, of making the face cstraight, as usual, it is formed with a curved or semicircular groove or recess, 7), adapted to receive the folded edge e of the upper and to assist in retaining a uniform t'old therein. It is also preferably formed with a slight recess or channel, d, to receive and guide the edge of the lining. By this guide the upper and lining are maintained in proper position relatively to each other and to the needle, and the stitch ing is performed with great accuracy and certainty. In order to permit the needle to stitch through the folded edge without passing entirely through the upper when the latter is thin and light, the gage or guide is provided grooves 11 d and notch e,substantially as shown with a notch, e, to receive the needle and perand described. m'it it to travel close to the bottom of grooves WALLACE L. VARNEY. or channels I) and (l. 5 Having thus described our invention, what WILLIAM HOWARD we claim is-- l.,\ Witnesses:

The guide for use in stitching linings to up- EDWIN E. HENRY, pers, havingthe face it provided with the two GEORGE HEATH. 

